Lilly Higgins: Eggs are for life, not just for breakfast (2024)

All too often, I forget that eggs make a really quick and easy dinner. We tend to pigeonhole them into a breakfast or brunch option – something to cook on a lazy weekend morning when we have time to enjoy a nice cooked breakfast.

Dishes such as shakshuka, a Middle Eastern pepper and tomato stew, can make a great dinner option too. The sauce simmers on the hob, and eggs are poached in little indents on the surface. Turkish menemen is very similar to shakshuka, but there’s a lesser-known Turkish eggs recipe that’s incredibly delicious too. This, called cilbir, involves poaching eggs, then laying them on a swirl of garlic-infused yoghurt, topping with a nutty chilli butter and fresh dill fronds. It’s a magical combination, simple, satisfying and very quick to make.

Initially, the thought of poached eggs and yoghurt may sound off-putting. I know those textures don’t sound right. But actually, it’s pure comfort food. Just add some good sourdough toast or a toasted pitta bread to mop up all that amazing flavour.

As with all simple dishes, this relies on great ingredients. Organic or at least free-range eggs and good-quality, thick Greek-style yoghurt are best. Have the eggs and yoghurt at room temperature. Nigella Lawson heats the yoghurt gently over a pan of simmering water to infuse the garlic. I find this makes it a little too runny and warm, so I simply stir it in, like many traditional recipes do. Garlic will always find a way of making itself known, especially in a creamy yoghurt. Mix it into the yoghurt and leave to infuse at room temperature for about 10 minutes.

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Traditionally, Turkish chilli flakes, pul biber, would be used for this. Aleppo chilli or paprika will be a good substitute. Dill is such an underused herb in this part of the world, but I do really love it. I’ve been using it regularly lately, as we’ve been cooking more and more Ukrainian food, in solidarity. I’ve recommended them here before, but Olia Hercules’s cookbooks are a real delight. She shares her family’s and friends’ traditional recipes in both Mamushka and Summer Kitchens. Food and recipes have always been a great way to connect with and understand a different culture. I find eating the food from a country is second best to visiting. The tastes and smells can transport you there.

Recipe: Turkish eggs (cilbir)